The Little Gloster
Cooking score: 4
Modern European | £35
31 Marsh Road, Gurnard, Isle of Wight,
"Glorious views over the Solent are served up rain or shine through the ample windows of Ben and Holly Cooke’s restaurant with rooms by the water’s edge, a few minutes’ drive west of Cowes. Within, it mixes a love of the English seaside with Scandinavia in a smorgasbord of woody white neutrality, and in a kitchen that fires up for breakfast and lunches that extend to Danish-style open sandwiches (Isle of Wight crab, say with avocado and soft-boiled egg) and fish and chips. In the evening, the menu ranges from chargrilled steaks to seafood bouillabaisse. Gravadlax is cured in-house, Asian flavours join the party with Vietnamese pork belly, and pasta is handmade - ravioli filled with goat’s cheese, Parmesan and pesto ricotta, for example. For dessert, treacle tart is a slice of old England. The wine list focuses on organic and biodynamic producers who operate on a small scale, with bottles opening at £19.95."
Quote from our letter:
"The Good Food Guide by Waitrose & Partners is the UK’s best-loved and longest-running restaurant guide. Inclusion in the Guide can only be earned by positive feedback from our tens of thousands of readers and anonymous assessment by our team of undercover, expert inspectors. We only include the very best restaurants in the UK, and [The Little Gloster] is a commendable achievement. On behalf of The Good Food Guide and Waitrose & Partners, we’d like to say well done."